
Headstock Breaks
Cost of this repair depends on a lot of factors: e.g Length of break, how invisible you desire the repair, extent of finish work etc.
For some breaks, particularly anything with splints, the cost can be lessoned with a sunburst to hide repair, but the appropriateness of doing this depends on the instrument.
Straightforward: Headstock still attached, headplate not broken. A clean long break with no missing bits. (see Gibson pic below)
Straightforward’ish: Opaque finish (Solid black etc). Requires color/finish work. Repairs are easy hide under colored paint! While the repair is straightforward, the cost is higher due to finish work.
More Difficult: Short break (closer to 90 degrees), and/or missing wood, Opaque finish. This will need splints to regain strength.
More than More Difficult: Same as “More Difficult” above but with clear finish.
Most Difficult: Clear finish on vintage instruments where an invisible result is highly desired to retain value.
Super duper crazy difficult if you want an invisible repair : See pics below. 90 degree break, clear finish, figured koa!

Typical Gibson headstock break

Stratocaster Koa headstock break...

This is the hardest break to fix- 90 degree break, clear finish AND figured koa

This is the hardest break to fix- 90 degree break, clear finish AND figured koa

This is the hardest break to fix- 90 degree break, clear finish AND figured koa

This is the hardest break to fix- 90 degree break, clear finish AND figured koa